CIB (Cait in Botswana)

This week's entry is by guest author Kate Nigro who came to visit me at the beginning of March. I thought it might be fun for her to write a blog entry on her trip to Botswana.  Here is what she had to say:

While I’m fairly certain any American foray into the Heart of Darkness is a unique experience, I feel lucky my first African adventure was this particular brand of unique. Due to the fact that Ericka and I were visiting none other than Peace Corps Volunteer Extraordinaire Caitlin McSweeny, I had the opportunity to narrowly avoid hitting an elephant as I rode on a bus, witnessed hippos out of water (rarely observed), repair mosquito netting, eat dinner at the beautiful abode of a British Ex-Pat (and enjoy his company), and much, much more. Ericka and I were fortunate enough to get a glimpse of what it might be like to be  Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV), while simultaneously learning about local culture. The Peace Corps network is extensive, and McSweeny is fortunate to know some very cool volunteers (who were also very helpful, fun and kind, and who knew MORE cool people). Also, McSweeny has done a great job of connecting with the locals, so we were able to meet and speak with many Motswana, which I’m very certain would have been paralyzing intimidating without Caitlin.

For the first time in memory, I truly felt like a foreigner. I’ve felt out of place before, especially in other countries, but being one of very few white people (or lacoa as Caitlin has mentioned before) in fairly rural parts of Botswana was met with lots of attention: positive, negative and so-positive-it-turned-negative (as in the multiple requests we received from men who wanted to return with us to the States).   

While we certainly encountered a fair number of people who seemed less than thrilled with our presence, many were very friendly. On multiple occasions, after being introduced, women would ask us to come and visit them in their homes. One woman was kind enough to invite us horseback riding, but we were unable to join her due to our schedule. I gave everyone who offered these invitations grateful but noncommittal responses until I could ask Caitlin about this gesture. She explained these invites were truly genuine, but they came with no sense of obligation. If we had shown up at their homes (or as the Motswana say “checked” them), we would have been very welcome! However, if we never showed up, it would not be considered an affront.

Of the local food we ate, my favorite was boiled bread (Madombe). If you are familiar with the steamed pork buns you can eat for Dim Sum, then you can imagine what this surprisingly dense, sweet bread tastes like. Delicious! I was surprised to learn that traditional cuisine is typically unavailable in restaurants. It is available for purchase as take away in grocery stores (much like we are able to get fried chicken and potato salad at deli counters at the grocery in the US), and we had the good fortune to purchase fantastic food from a woman who cooks at home and vends at Caitlin’s workplace.

On one of our last days in the country, we stopped to eat in a fast food restaurant in Caitlin’s village that served  fried chicken and chips (very popular there). The couple that owned the restaurant were Indian immigrants, and I was amazed at the sense of instant camaraderie they felt toward us. The man made us promise to return and repeatedly let us know that we were welcome at any time. We were friends. I found this astounding, as I have never before experienced this type of reaction, especially by a person from a minority population. The couple felt a connection to us because we were minorities. Caitlin seemed unfazed by this, as I’m sure it happens to her frequently. For me, that is one of the moments of culture shock that I think of often. The earnestness of his invitation. 

In all, I am thrilled to have made it back State Side without any evidence of Fleash-Eating DysAIDSlaria. More importantly, I am utterly grateful to Caitlin, Tony and all the PCVs who we hung with for their tireless efforts to help Ericka and me navigate the amazingly beautiful Botswana.